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AUTUMN IS THE SEASON of the vendemmia, the grape harvest, which is often used as an excuse for village festivities at which the local wines flow in quantity. The Tuscans are also passionate about fresh funghi (mush-rooms), which will appear on restaurant menus and feature on market stalls. The first frosts will occur any time from the end of October, and at this point the great tracts of woodland all over Tuscany begin to turn brilliant shades of red and gold.

September

  • Giostra del Saraceno or the Joust of the Saracen (first Sunday), Arezzo. Festa della Rificolona (7 September), Piazza della Santissima Annunziata, Florence. Children from all over the city converge on the square carrying candle-lit paper lanterns to honour the eve of the birth of the Virgin.
  • Palio della Balestra or Crossbow Festival (second Sunday), Sansepolcro. Costume parades and flag throwing accompany a crossbow competition between Sansepolcro and the Umbrian town of Gubbio.
  • Luntinara di Santa Croce (13 September), Lucca. The city's famous relic, the Volto Santo, a wooden statue of Christ, is paraded around by torchlight.
  • Rassegna del Chianti Classico (second week), Greve in Chianti. The biggest Tuscan celebration of local wines.
  • Mostra Mercato Internazionale dell'Antiquariato (Sep-Oct), Florence. A major biennial antiques fair.

October

  • Amici della Musica (Oct-Apr), Florence. The "Friends of Music" concert season.
  • Sagra del Tordo or Festival of the Thrush (last Sunday), Montalcino.

November

  • Festival dei Popoli (Nov-Dec), Palazzo dei Congressi, Florence. Tuscany's most important film festival. Open to everyone, it shows films in their original language with Italian subtitles.